Bath, North Carolina is a fascinating town with fascinating people. I never knew it existed until a few days ago. I love this feeling of riding down a road I’ve never been on, having no idea what’s up around the bend.
I got another early start today. I’ve been much better about that, and it’s really making my days easier. I had a do-it-yourself waffle at the motel (I love those, and they’re free!) and a nice conversation with the lovely lady at the desk. I told her I was attacked by fire ants yesterday, and she said the same thing had just happened to her while she was mowing her lawn. She showed me her ankles, and they were much worse than mine. In the midst of the conversation, I realized I had the perfect remedy with me the whole time: Porter’s Liniment Salve, which Kevin Bedford generously provided on my Seattle ride. I showed it to her, and she said she’d try to find some. I would have given it to her, but I have a feeling I’m going to need it!
I got back on my route (yay!!) and headed south, roughly... The forecast had promised clouds, but there ain’t none. I rode through some back roads and then ended up on a highway that was being paved. People were very patient with me, since there was no way for them to pass me. Then I missed my turn, which didn’t help. I had to turn around and go back, and the paving guys looked at me like I was crazy. Hah! I found my turn and was on that road for quite a while. Saw more turtles, rabbits, and a big-eared deer who was very interested in me and did not run away. Today was my first encounter with a dog, who chased me a bit and nipped at my ankles but soon gave up.
I rode into Bath around 1:00 and it’s very picturesque. It’s the oldest incorporated town in North Carolina. The man at the cigar shop (I was buying water) told me that the town was cursed by a man named George Whitefield. He was a preacher who thought the locals were having too much fun, so he placed a 100-year curse on the town. I can’t find the exact date of his curse, but many seem to believe that it’s still cursed.
I was given a lovely (and cheap!) room with a deck that overlooked the river. It was so beautiful. The nice young man who checked me in helped me upstairs with my bike trailer. I was pretty hungry so I headed right across the street to a restaurant that looked nice. I sat outside, despite the heat, because that’s where the people were. The food was very good; I had a fish taco, and although she brought me fries when I asked for rice, I ate them and they were tasty. I promised the waitress I’d be back for dinner when she told me they were having live music. I did indeed go back and was entertained by a man named John Williams (I think) who played guitar and sang while I ate my pizza. When I requested Brown Eyed Girl, he played it immediately. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Bath, despite the curse.
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